Earlier this year, we sampled the 6-Year Soft Red Wheat expression from Holladay; today we’re sinking our teeth into its older brother - Holladay7-Year Bottled-in-Bond.
Nothin’ But Missouri
Few bourbons can claim that 100% of their ingredients are local; Holladay is one of them. This expression is listed as Missouri Straight Bourbon Whiskey. To bear that moniker, the bourbon must be mashed, fermented, distilled, aged in Missouri; oak barrels must be manufactured in the state; and, since 2020, made from 100% Missouri-grown corn.
While Kentucky lays claim to 95% of the world’s bourbon, fine bourbons are produced elsewhere - including in the hills of western Missouri. Since taking ownership in 1993, the McCormick Distilling Company has been growing the brand’s lineup and presence across the country under the leadership of Ed Pechar, Mike Griesser, and Master Distiller Kyle Merlein. Not only are they bringing an authentic Missouri bourbon back to prominence, they’re using some of the original recipes from when Ben and David Holladay distilled their first whiskeys in 1856..
The Tasting
Holladay is packaged in a lovely sepia-toned and crimson label adorned with an 1850s-style stagecoach. The reverse side of the bottle has raised DSP MO 5 prominently displayed. A faux tax stamp covers the screw top cap.
A label on the side of the bottle shares the following: Distilled Fall 2016 and bottled November 11, 2023. The brand carries a 7-year age statement and utilizes a mash bill of 73% corn, 15% rye, and 12% malted barley.
The final product is a blend of barrels from various floors of Rickhouse C: 44% floor 5, 18% floor 3, and 18% floor 2. Recall that warehouse temperatures can vary as much as 30 degrees between the top and bottom floors. Barrels at higher floors are exposed to more swings in temperature, resulting in further interaction between the spirits and the wood; conversely, barrels stored at lower floors have less interaction and the more moderate temperatures allow for longer aging of bourbon without it becoming over-oaked.
Lastly, the bourbon is labeled as Bottled-in-Bond and meets the following standards:
A single type of spirit
Produced in the same distilling season by the same distiller at the same distillery
Aged at least 4 years (this one has been aged for 6 years)
Unadulterated (except that filtration and proofing is allowed)
Proofed with pure water to exactly 100-proof
And labeled with the registered distillery number and either with the real name of the distillery or a trade name (recall that the bottle carries a raised DSP MO 5).
Color: Copper with legs forming a web on the inside of my Glencairn glass.
Nose: Vanilla and caramel balanced with gentle oak, light spice, pipe tobacco, and apple cobbler dusted with cinnamon and nutmeg. This is rich on the nose, carrying some “heft”.
Palate: A thick and creamy mouthfeel is the first thing that’s noticeable - compliments of the non-chill filtration). The bourbon is savory-sweet, with a good blend of baked fruits, vanilla, oak and spice.
Finish: Long with oak and spice. It leans towards the hotter end, but is nicely balanced with sweeter vanilla and fruit notes.
Overall: I shared earlier that I really enjoyed the Soft Wheat Expression from Holladay, and this one receives another thumbs-up, as well. Many newer distilleries are popping out younger bourbons, so kudos again for waiting patiently for 6 or 7 years - and delivering a product that adheres to the Bottled-in-Bond regulations.
The age statement is a nice touch, as is the full disclosure of the rickhouse, floors, and percentages that comprised the particular blend. I raise my glass to the team at Holladay! Keep up the great work and be on the lookout for this bourbon worthy to bear its founder’s name.
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